A week ago I was caught in a heavy downpour just after finishing up a meeting in town. I called a friend to see if he could pick me up. He could, so I found a bit of shelter under a tarpaulin and waited.
He arrived about 30 minutes later and we headed towards the West side of town. We did however need to get some petrol. This sounds easy, but it being only 4 days after the increase of the petrol price, we knew this would not be the case. For a few days many of the petrol stations had been closed, selling petrol for only a few hours everyday. Long lines of cars appear outside of petrol stations, waiting for station to open. Numerous jerry cans were lined up outside of stations, waiting to be filled. No one was happy.
The price of petrol used to be Le 17,500 for a gallon of petrol. Seeing as one UK gallon is 4.55 Liters, this means the liter price used to be Le 3,846. The new price is Le 5,000 per liter. For some reason, they have now started selling petrol per liter instead of per gallon. Maybe they’re hoping people won’t realize how big the increase in price was. If you look at the gallon price now it is Le 22,750 per gallon. This is quite a significant increase in price especially in relation to the average income in Sierra Leone!
My friend and I found a petrol station that looked like it might open soon. There were about 20 cars lined up outside so we joined the line. About 30 minutes later, the petrol station opened. We continued to wait, moving forward every few minutes as cars in the front of the line moved on. Of course the unthinkable happened. There were only two more cars in front of us and at that moment the station manager decide to stop selling. By this time we had been there for over an hour. And that is what happened to many people over the course of a week. It was not pleasant. Fortunately we made it home with the small amount of petrol left in the tank. I still don’t know why petrol stations were not selling for most of the day. Did they really have a short supply? Or was this all a power play? Were they trying to make a statement because in reality they were hoping for more of an increase in price? I hear it is even worse upcountry where they are charging up to Le 8,000 per liter!
So now taxi and poda poda drivers need to spend more on petrol. This means that transport prices have gone up from Le 1,000 to Le 1,300. In the meantime, salaries don’t change and so people spend a higher percentage of their salary on transport costs, leaving less money for living expenses. Prices of commodities are guaranteed to go up, to compensate for people’s loss of money (money now going to transport). As you can imagine, people are not so happy. But there is nothing that can be done about it. So, people will manage. They will need to manage with what they have. And I can again be thankful that I don’t need to worry about where my next meal comes from. I am privileged.
I was not expecting to see the lantern parade on Saturday night because my plan was to stay overnight at Tokeh beach, however, a 24-hour bug kept me at home on Saturday. Since I hadn’t eaten all day my stomach settled a bit by the evening and so around 10 pm when a friend said she really wanted to go and see the lanterns, I joined, seeing as it was the last of the Independence celebrations! (Plus I was going a little stir crazy having been in the flat for over 24 hours!)
Off we went at 10 pm trying to find transport, forgetting that there would be hundreds of people trying to get transport at that time and of course the petrol crisis made it all the more difficult. We finally found a taxi and it took us right into town for Le 2,000 each (USD 0.50). Surprisingly, the taxi was able to drive us right to the end of Pademba road, very close to the Cotton Tree, where the event was happening. Bearing in mind that the event was scheduled to start at 7pm we were surprised to see at 11 pm that, although busy, not that much was happening as far as a parade. We met up with some other expats and stood chatting and waiting for the lanterns to come by. So far, my friends who had already been there for 2 hours had not spotted a lantern. This was true Salone time.
Finally, at midnight the first lantern approached the Cotton Tree. This was both exciting and fun but honestly, I am not sure why they are called ‘lanterns’. I think a cultural float is a better description. Most of them were basically massive puppet shows on flat bed trucks; some with puppet soldiers, one with a puppet lion who’s head was bobbing up and down, one with puppet street cleaners, some with live music to add to the effect, some designed as ships. They were definitely entertaining, to say the least. Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures to show you; I didn’t want to take a chance with my camera!
In the next thirty minutes we didn’t see another float so we thought we would move around and try to find them! Seeing as none of us felt like staying out till 4 or 5 am, which is when the lanterns were likely to reach the Cotton Tree for judging, we thought we would make a move.
We attempted to walk down Siaka Stevens street but the masses quickly made us change course. We went back down Pademba and then took a right down the second side street ending up by the Electricity House. We walked along Siaka Stevens street and after some minutes a large group of young men ran past us. This surprised us and we quickly jumped to the side of the road. Within seconds a lantern appeared behind the group of men. A second lantern spotted. After walking a bit further we felt like the crowd was too rowdy and turned up to Pademba road again only to later return further down on Siaka Stevens where we saw the third float. Seeing as it was really busy, and time was ticking along, we thought we would call it a night. We decided to head home, but of course, with the busyness, transport would be hard to get.
We started walking down Pademba road and sure enough, just as we were wondering where the lanterns were hiding, a lantern turned onto Pademba road. The crowd behind it was massive and so we waited on the side of the road. It was definitely intriguing and entertaining to watch the crowd pass by. I assume most of them had been following the lantern from Tengbeh Town, which is the community that built this particular float. It was by far the best float: a ship with helicopter and all. The crowd seemed very proud of it and we were all impressed. After a good twenty minutes we could finally move towards Campbell Street. There we saw a couple more lanterns. So, all in all, we couldn’t complain.
We ended up walking to the stadium due to lack of transport and in the end got into someone’s personal vehicle to Congo Cross. Three of us then got out and took a taxi the rest of the way home. It was a late night but it was worth it and fortunately my stomach coped! I would definitely watch the lanterns again but maybe I would go to bed early and then wake up at 5 am and go to the Cotton Tree to see the final parade of all the lanterns at once! Actually, I hear they park the lanterns at the Youyi building, so another option is to go and see them there. However, I’m not sure the experience would be quite the same without the masses of people, the search for the lanterns and the sounds on the street.
I decided to spend Independence Day with friends at Charlotte Falls. Actually, our first stop was halfway up the road to the Chimp Reserve for a quick hike up the ‘Butterfly trail’. It was a lovely walk but there were not a whole lot of butterflies! It was so peaceful though.
We then continued to Charlotte village. My friend decided we should take the second turnoff- supposedly less steep than the first turnoff. Well, it was still pretty steep and it was all loose rock. After getting stuck, we switched drivers. After a few minutes, when it seemed the land rover might just tip over, those of us in the back got out. The problem was that there was a deep crevice in the road, filled with some loose rocks. While trying to get the back tires out of the crevice, the vehicle kept sliding, lifting the back left tire about a foot off of the ground as the right tire went deeper into the crevice. It looked pretty scary but the driver continued to maneuver her way down hill- slipping and sliding over the rocks. Finally, the land rover made it to the bottom. When we reached the bottom on foot, we heard that part of the problem was that the handbrake was left on. No wonder they slid all the way down! It’s yet another story to tell.
We were quickly joined by Akim, our guide and headed to the falls. On our way we passed the chief’s house where they were having a big Independence celebration. Everyone was wearing green, white and blue, music was blaring, and people were enjoying food and drinks. Perfect.
The falls were great, even though there wasn’t a whole lot of water flowing. That’s what happens towards the end of dry season. There was still plenty of water in the pool though and we enjoyed a quick swim after our picnic. We were later joined by people from the local TV network who wanted to film us and talk about development. We were maybe too honest in saying we didn’t want the place to develop further – we liked the fact that we were in the middle of nature! Charlotte falls really is a beautiful place.
The plan for the night (according to the schedule) was Carnival and Fireworks at Lumley beach, starting at 9 pm. I assumed that the festivities would start around 9 pm like they did on Sunday night and that the fireworks would kick off at midnight.
So, my colleague and I headed down to Lumley beach decked out in green, white and blue. We were ready for a party. The plan was to head to Montana’s on the beach and meet up with some more friends and then join in with the Saloneans to celebrate.
Well, the night did not quite go as planned. We ended up sitting at Montana’s with about 30 expatriates, waiting. Surprisingly, beach road was not crowded at all. The road was not blocked off like it was Sunday night which actually made it easier for everyone to get transport. However, I actually quite liked the street festival vibe on Sunday evening and was hoping tonight would be even more spectacular. There must have been a party elsewhere that someone forgot to tell us about!
My colleague’s friend was due to arrive tonight from the UK and so at 10:30 pm we headed to the water taxi to pick her up. We walked along Lumley beach road, which was still really quiet. No partying going on, but again, this meant we easily found a taxi. The friend arrived at 11:15 pm and decided that instead of heading back to the beach, we would head home. After all, it seemed more and more unlikely that there would actually be fireworks. And if there were, we would see them from our house.
It is midnight. HAPPY BIRTHDAY SIERRA LEONE!!
I never did see fireworks tonight, and it didn’t sound like much partying was going on, but it was still an enjoyable evening. People must either be partying elsewhere or getting geared up for the 7 am parade tomorrow! Of course, on our street, the music has piped up and the party has started. I think the music may just go on all night. For me, it’s time to sleep. I’ll continue the Independence Day celebrations tomorrow! And I am sure that tomorrow there will be a lot going on…
Lumley beach is apparently the happening place this week. Last night they had a massive party there. When I went to the beach this morning at 6 am for an Easter sunrise service there were hundreds of people walking from the beach towards Aberdeen. I guess a lot of people didn’t sleep last night!
This evening, after dropping off my colleague’s parents at the water taxi, we headed to Lumley beach. I was curious as to what the atmosphere would be like. We went to Roy’s for a drink. Initially the beach wasn’t too busy. However, the road was blocked off just past the helicopter road turn off and no vehicles were allowed onto the main part of beach road. That is, no vehicles except for the occasional VIP, or ‘someone who knows someone’ type of vehicle and of course the Ambulance. The ambulance drove up and down the road with siren on for no apparent reason. Patrolling? Driving around VIPs? Picking up people who have fainted? Who knows? It seemed like ‘a lot of noise, but little action’. And I almost hate to say it, but that sometimes seems like a common theme. Anyway, it was great to have a whole road to walk on, except for dodging the occasional okada (motorcycle).
After Roy’s we decided we would venture a little further to see what was happening at Montana’s- where we had seen a pretty big stage the day before. Sure enough there was a bigger crowd there. And actually, the road was much busier with people too. I have to admit that there was a great atmosphere there. Everyone seemed happy and friendly. There were many stalls on the side of the road selling drinks, biscuits, street meat etc. It really resembles a street festival at home. I ran into a former patient and his mom, as well as a former lab technician of mine. It’s fun to run into familiar faces. When we reached the stage there was again a lot of noise from the stage and little action – Airtel; one of the mobile networks was doing some kind of promotion talk. People seemed fine with it though. We stayed for a bit and then headed back. We took a fabulous taxi from beach road to Congo Cross with a built in DVD player/screen and watched Michael Jackson video clips during our journey home. We changed taxis at Congo Cross and then walked the last bit up Cemetery Road to our house. It was an enjoyable evening.
Rumor has it that Tuesday’s events will include live bands and fireworks. That’s Independence Eve folks and I think we’ll try to be there. Of course, there will be hundreds of people there, and so to the concerned ones out there, don’t worry; we’ll do our best to stay safe. If the crowd gets out of control, we’ll head home. It’s just hard to pass up the 50th Anniversary celebrations.
After more than 150 years of British colonial rule, Sierra Leone won its independence on the 27th April 1961. At the stroke of midnight, Sierra Leone’s green, white and blue flag was displayed for all to see and the new government, led by Prime Minister Sir Milton Margai, was welcomed.
Now almost 50 years later the celebrations have begun once again. A month ago the first signs of a pending 50th Anniversary Celebration appeared in downtown Freetown. Now the city is filled with decorations: from green, white and blue bunting to flags waving in the breeze, from bracelets and other jewelry in the national colors to banners wishing Sierra Leone a happy anniversary. And since a few days the actual celebrations have begun.
On Wednesday the entire republic of Sierra Leone will celebrate 50 years of independence and because of this, I believe most, if not all, of next week has been declared a public holiday. Everyone is celebrating. There are celebrations on Lumley beach every night this week, masquerade parade through town, a lantern parade, football matches, fireworks, etc. I’m sure there will be enough to do, he trick will be avoiding crazy crowds and dodging traffic.
One thing I have been wondering is what Sierra Leone was like 50 years ago. Was it in a better state at that time? I’d love to travel back in time and see what the streets of Freetown looked like in 1961. To sit in a school and experience the education at the time, to go to the Children’s Hospital and see what the health care was like. As you know, an 11-year long war destroyed much of the country and the country is still struggling to recover. Yes, there has been progress and hopefully that will continue. However, it seems as if there is still a very dependent culture; a dependence on non-governmental agencies and other foreign aid. My hope is that the 50-year celebrations will inspire Saloneans to stand up and change their nation. I want them to feel empowered and realize that they can make the difference. Hopefully the national pride displayed this week will transform into a strong will for individuals to make this country a better place.
